Rolex has long been associated with some of the most fruitful associations in history, be it in the world of sports, aviation, diving or any other. After the invention of the Oyster case in 1926, the brand steered its reputation from being delicate accessories worn by women to robust tools fit for an active lifestyle. This attribute soon made them a go-to choice for military personnel needing a reliable, durable, quality timepiece during active duty.
The Legacy Of Rolex Military Watches
While many admire Rolex for its luxurious timepieces, few know its significant contributions to the world of military watches. These robust and reliable instruments have played an integral role in some of the most pivotal moments in history. From the years of WWII to beyond the battlefield, Rolex military watches have been a symbol of resilience, precision and innovation.
Here, we will explore the remarkable history of Rolex military watches and the stories they carry.
Before The World War II
During the years preceding WWII, Panerai, a small Italian watchmaker, was in charge of supplying the country’s Navy with high-precision mechanical tools and was tasked with providing wristwatches for the frogman commandos of the first Submarine Group Command that were to be worn during their underwater demolition missions.
Panerai immediately turned to Rolex for their waterproof housings and collectively built the Ref. 3646 in 1938. The watch was named the ‘Radiomir’. It was in production till the early 1950s. This collaboration was a huge success and helped the Italian military until 1956.
During The World War II
By the time World War II broke out in Europe in 1939, Rolex had already cemented its position as a maker of highly reliable, durable and quality timepieces. The watches joined the Houston Expedition in 1933, marking the first-ever flight over Mount Everest. They also graced the wrists of Sir Malcolm Campbell during his super land speed record attempts at the daring races on Daytona Beach, Florida.
Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was a German by birth, but still, he shared strong disapproval against Hitler’s fascist government. The former showed an unwavering support towards the allied forces by sending watches to the captured soldiers in Prisoner Of War camps. The guards had replaced or removed the watches from the soldiers, and Wilsdorf sent the pieces to replace them. He also sent firm orders stating that the officers would not even consider paying the money until they reached home safely.
One such Rolex creation was the Ref. 3525. Rolex made an attempt to build a chronograph featuring a Valjoux movement and was named the ‘Monoblocco. The timepiece became instrumental for its precision and accuracy and proved to be of great help during the mass breakout from Stalag Luft III in 1944.
However, the most famous creation that came out during WWII was the Rolex ‘Air’ series. Rolex specifically designed the pieces for the British Royal Air Force members serving in the Battle of Britain. The RAF pilots had already discarded their typical watches and purchased Rolex Oyster Perpetuals out of their own money as the timepieces were larger and offered greater legibility suited for their dangerous missions.
As this piece of news reached Wilsdorf, he decided to produce dedicated watches for the soldiers, and hence, the ‘Air’ series was created. The Air series included models like the Air-Lion, Air-King, Air-Giant and the Air-Tiger. Of all the collections made then, only the Air-King is in production today.
After The World War II
1945 was also the year of Rolex’s 40th anniversary, and to commemorate the event, the brand launched a revolutionary model – the ‘Datejust’. The Rolex Datejust was the world’s first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch, displaying the date through a small yet highly legible window on the dial.
In the following years, Rolex caught the attention of the military forces with a new variation of the Datejust, known as the Turn-O-Graph. The unique rotating 60-unit bezel credits the name to this watch. That’s not it. This model welcomed a series of firsts for the brand. It was Rolex’s first official tool watch, the first steel and two-tone gold model, and the first certified military watch.
The Turn-O-Graph lets you track two types of measurements- specific intervals and elapsed time. The watch was incredibly easy to use, perfect for calculations during navigation, like the U.S. Air Force’s aerobatic regiment. Soon, it became their official timepiece and was nicknamed ‘Thunderbird’.
Sadly, despite so many ‘firsts’ to its name and being a popular watch, the Thunderbird struggled to find an audience base and lagged behind in the catalogue. While it somehow managed to limp, it was in 2011 that Rolex finally took it off the shelf after a 58-year-long run.
The ‘MILSUB’ Was Born
Released only a year after the Turn-O-Graph, the Submariner was made the official watch of the Royal Navy by the British Ministry of Defense. It was named the ‘MilSub’, combining the words ‘Military’ and Rolex’s ‘Submariner’. Unlike the Turn-O-Graph, the MilSub variant was destined to achieve greater things.
Rolex released 50 examples of Ref. 6538 for field testing. Therefore, it is needless to say how coveted the watches are and command incredibly high prices when you sell Rolex in the pre-owned market. Only two changes were made to the existing Submariner to make it suitable for military forces. First, the watch was given a larger appearance, making it easier to operate the bezel, and second, it had a NATO strap to fit the purpose. The later references include the A/6538 AND 5512.
These originals served up until 1967, when the Ministry of Defense decided to switch to Omega in 1967. However, the Omega Seamaster 300 lasted only until 1971 before the Submariner returned!
The models released in 1971, like the Ref. 5513 and Ref. 5517, are the MilSub we generally know about. The watches feature sword-shaped hands and a full-graduated bezel. The best part is that Rolex produced them in large quantities. Eventually, the prices and the demand for the Submariner kept increasing and eventually exceeded what the MOD was willing to pay. Unfortunately, by the 1980s, the Ministry of Defense cut off its tie with Rolex to turn to a British brand called the Cabot Watch Company.
Today’s Scenario
Rolex’s collaboration with military forces has arguably diminished in the twenty-first century. However, they have become more specialised. Today, Rolex partners with specific regiments or to celebrate specific military events. For example, Rolex released special editions of the Explorer II and Submariner in the early 2000s, custom-ordered by the Special Reconnaissance Regiment of the British Armed Forces.
In exploring the profound history of Rolex military watches, we’ve delved into a world where precision met bravery, and innovation intertwined with resilience. The legacy of Rolex military timepieces transcends their functionality as mere tools; they embody the spirit of courage, determination, and unparalleled craftsmanship.
From the battlefields of World War II to the wrists of daring adventurers, Rolex military watches have stood the test of time, becoming more than just instruments to measure it. As we reflect on this legacy, we’re reminded that every scratch on the case, every tick of the second hand, carries a story— a story of triumph, challenges overcome, and the pursuit of excellence.
Debz Louise is a plus-size blogger based in Yorkshire. Behind many nationwide campaigns such as #WeaAreTheThey & winner of Best Blogger at the UK Plus Size Awards, she talkas about life as a plus-size 40-something woman in South Yorkshire.
Leave a Reply